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When can a blocked drain in a restaurant be a good sign?

Recently a restaurant owner in Waterloo Ontario started using Bio Pure Drain & Receptor to clean his drains. Inspections of his clean-out showed that the amount of bio-waste in the lines was being reduced. And then something unexpected happened. He had a blockage and had to call in a plumber. At first glance that might seem like a bad thing but there's another side to the story.

It turns out that Bio Pure had loosened the organic material that had been stuck to the pipes for ages and flushed it down the lines. That's why the plumber needed to be called in. This is consistent with what has been observed in applications outside of the restaurant business so it was actually no surprise to Bio-Pure.

And the restaurant owner says he's more convinced now than ever that Bio Pure is working for him. Yes, there was a short term inconvenience but now he knows that Bio Pure Drain & Receptor is doing the job it's supposed to do and that in the furture he's not going to have any more surprises.

If you'd like a Drain Line Consultation give us a call at 519-748-1135. We'll help you get an upper hand on your drainage issues too.


How soon should I notice the effects of Bio Pure in my drain lines or grease trap?

That's difficult to answer becasue of variables such as line size and amount of debris. However you should notice the reduction or elimination of odors within ten minutes.


What is the application of Bio Pure in tanning salons?

Self-Cleaning tanning beds dispose of the water used in cleaning by flushing it to a holding tank containing a sump pump. Since some water is always sitting in the tank bacteria forms and grows. Foul odors are a sign that this is happening.

Bio-Pure Sump Pump & Drain Cleaner takes care of this problem. Within ten minutes it will neatralize foul odors and then it will begin to digest the bacteria turning it into harmless waste.

What are pH, alkalinity, and hardness; why are they important; how do I measure them?


First let's discuss what pH means. Without getting into the scientific details, pH is a measurement of how acidic or basic something is. A pH of 7 is considered “neutral”. Anything below seven is considered acidic and anything above seven is considered basic (sometimes referred to as alkaline or caustic). Pure water has a pH of seven. Here are the approximate pHs of a few common solutions:

2.0 Lemon Juice
3.5 Cola
4.5 Orange Juice
6.5 Milk
7.0 Water
8.5 Sea Water
10.5 Laundry Detergent
12.5 Bleach
13.5 Drain Cleaner

It is important to note that the pH scale is logarithmic, just like the scale used to measure earthquakes. Each one unit change on the scale actually means a ten-fold change. For example, Cola (pH=3.5) is ten times more acidic that Orange Juice (pH=4.5) or Orange Juice is 100 times (10 x 10) more acidic that Milk (pH=6.5). So as you can see, a small change in the pH number actually corresponds to large changes in acidity.

All species that live in water (bacteria, algae, plants, animals, etc.) are dependant on pH. Each has its preferred range and if the pH is outside that range stress or even death occurs. pH affects the uptake of food and nutrients. pH also can alter the toxicity of water contaminants. For example ammonia becomes more toxic as water pH increases. Large pH fluctuations, even if it remains within the tolerated range of a species, can still cause significant stress or death. You will find most aquatic organisms raised in aquariums or ponds have a preferred pH range somewhere between 6.5 and 9.0. For example Koi prefer a pH between 7 and 8.5; many tropical fish like a pH just below 7. Our BZT product line contains bacterial species that tolerate a pH between 6 and 9.


Alkalinity is a very-often misunderstood water parameter. The term is further confused with pH because the opposite of acidic is sometime referred to as alkaline. But in water quality, the word “alkalinity” refers to something else. Alkalinity indicates how well a water system can neutralize (buffer) changes in pH. Water with a high alkalinity will better resist changes in pH. An excellent example of alkalinity's ability to resist pH change is in ponds containing significant algae. Carbon dioxide is the dominant factor that controls pH in natural waters. The more dissolved carbon dioxide, the lower the pH. During the daytime algae use up carbon dioxide from the water which can raise the pH significantly. At night, this doesn't happen and carbon dioxide can build up, lowering the pH of the water. In a pond with moderate alkalinity (~75mg/L) this daytime/nighttime (diurnal) pH swing can go from 6.5 to almost 9. Without the buffer offered by adequate alkalinity (e.g. < 20mg/L), the pH could go over 10 or fall under 6. As you can see adequate alkalinity is important in preventing significant pH swings. In general, the preferred range for alkalinity is between 75mg/L and 200mg/L.


Hardness is a measurement of divalent cations (e.g. calcium, magnesium) in the water. At home we hate hard water. Hardness is what forms the scale on faucets and water heaters. In aquaculture hardness indicates the availability of divalent salts, mostly calcium and magnesium. These are essential for bone and fish-scale formation as well as other biological functions. Hardness is not Alkalinity and the two are not necessarily related. Suggested hardness ranges from 100mg/L to 250mg/L.


There are several ways to measure pH, alkalinity, or hardness available to the consumer. We suggest you visit your local pet store that offers a good selection of aquarium supplies. You will find several different types of kits from a variety of manufacturers that are cost effective and easy to use. Some utilize liquid indicators that are added dropwise to a sample of your water. Color change of the water is compared to a chart to determine the value of the parameter being measured. Others use test-strips that are dipped into a sample of your water and then the color of the strip is compared to a color chart as above. There are even 5-in-1 strips that measure multi-parameters like pH, nitrate, nitrite, alkalinity, and hardness all at the same time.

I always hear people talking about ammonia, nitrate, or nitrite when they talk about their pond. Why are these important?

These three compounds contain nitrogen and are soluble in water. They are sometimes referred to as ‘available' nitrogen because these compounds are readily used by plants, bacteria, or algae. Another thing they have in common is that if they are at a high enough concentration, they can be toxic to fish, shrimp, and other aquatic organisms. Nitrogen is a very important element for all living organisms as it is the backbone for amino acids, proteins, and many other organic compounds. Once nitrogen enters the food chain, it becomes a part of that organism or it is excreted as wastes in urine and feces. It is also released back into the environment through the breakdown of dead tissue. In aqueous environments, this process can lead to a buildup of nitrogen compounds like ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite. Plants, bacteria, and algae use the available forms of nitrogen as a nutrient source but then if not eaten they release the nitrogen back into the water when they die. However, some species of bacteria actually convert these forms of nitrogen back to gaseous nitrogen and thus nitrogen escapes to the atmosphere.

How does nitrogen enter/exit my pond or aquarium?

Nitrogen inputs include primary sources like fish food (in amino acids and proteins). Outdoor ponds also see inputs from animal wastes (e.g. birds or reptiles) or as impurities in runoff (lawn or plant fertilizers, animal wastes), leaf or grass litter, or even rainwater. Nitrogen and other nutrients become stored in living organisms or in dead decaying matter (sludge). Organic matter like fish food, plants, animals, insects, algae, and bacteria all store nutrients. If fish or other higher organisms are present, they are consuming this organic matter and excreting wastes that include available forms of nitrogen. Once dead, organisms start breaking down and release these nutrients back into the water making them available for new plants, bacteria, and algae. When these new organisms die or are eaten, they start the cycle over again.

Nitrogen exits from an aqueous system through several pathways: water exchange, harvest of organic matter (fish, plants, algae removed from system), or volatilization (escapes as gases). A healthy aquatic environment can maintain a nitrogen balance with inputs equaling outputs. If too much nitrogen enters the system, it can become out of balance, creating excess available nitrogen in the form of ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite. As described above, these compounds can be toxic to fish or can create algae blooms.

How do I protect my pond or aquarium from a build up of these available and toxic nitrogenous compounds?

There are four methods you can apply to control the build up of nitrogen compounds. 1) Limit the amount of nitrogen you are purposely putting into the system. Make sure you are not over feeding fish, use lower protein feeds, or lower your fish-stocking rate. 2) Minimize incidental inputs of nutrients from runoff or animal wastes. 3) Remove nutrient stores by harvesting fish, algae, plants, or sludge from the water; or use water exchanges. 4) Improve the nutrient cycling characteristics of your pond or aquarium.

Let's talk about the fourth method. As shown above, nutrients can continue to be recycled in an aqueous system: start in living organisms, they die, slowly decompose, and release the nutrients to repeat the cycle. If you can alter this cycle, you can “re-direct” the nutrients to more beneficial pathways. By augmenting the bacteria population with highly efficient bacteria, you can keep the available and toxic forms of nitrogen maintained at minimal levels. These more-efficient bacteria scavenge the water for available nitrogen and re-direct some into pathways that lead to the volatilization of harmless nitrogen gases. Thus nitrogen actually leaves the system providing less to continue the cycle in the water. With less available nutrients, other organisms like algae may not be able to proliferate and continue the less-efficient nutrient cycling pathways. Nutrients that remain are quickly scavenged by the bacteria creating a healthier, more aesthetically pleasing environment.

You may be asking yourself, “Where can I find such highly efficient bacteria to augment my pond or aquarium ecosystem”? Bio-Pure's All-Natural product line, of course!

In addition to being more effective Bio-Pure is completely safe for the environment
Bio-Pure formulation = multi-specie bacteria + nutrients + carriers + enzymes
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